Old categories and new wine geographies. Discussing the creation of value, tradition and identity

Autores/as

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.22234/recu.20210901.e609

Palabras clave:

New wine geographies, value, terroir, tradition, identity

Resumen

Wine production is a cultural, creative, versatile activity, and at the same time, it carries conservative and traditional ideas and classifications that, in some cases, do not fit the dynamism and diversity of the global wine scenery. To achieve a better understanding and with the hope to eventually overcome this complex decalage, this article presents a theoretical discussion of value creation in the context of emerging wine-growing areas. The need to incorporate a socio-anthropological perspective to the study of value is explained, and the limits posed by the reproduction of representation and valorization models based on the classic discourse versions of terroir, tradition, and identity are argued. Given the fact that the worlds of wine (Old/New/Third), are being expanded and transformed, this paper shows that the new wine geographies offer a valuable testing ground for a well-aimed interpretation of the winemaking scenarios of the 21st century.

Descargas

Los datos de descargas todavía no están disponibles.

Biografía del autor/a

María del Carmen Salas Quesada, Centro de Investigación en Alimentos y Desarrollo

Spanish. Bachelor’s degree in Food Science and Technology by the University of Granada, Spain. Has a Master Degree in Agrofood in the University of Córdoba, Spain. Takes advantage of her master’s degree practices to define her professional profile as well as work as laboratory technician and quality control in the wine industry.  This way, her involvement in the wine sector began (between 2010-2017), which led her to work in California, New Zealand and France. In 2012, she enrolled in the master’s degree in history and culture of food in Tours, France, which only completed the first cycle (M1). In 2015, she decided to enroll in the master’s degree in anthropology and ethnography in the University of Barcelona. Since January 2018 she resides in Hermosillo, Sonora, Mexico, where she is pursuing the doctorate in regional development in the Center of Research in Food and Development (CIAD), as a full time student. Her research analyzes, from a socio anthropology perspective of food, the relationship between new wine geographies, the value of creation and the territory.

Sergio Alfonso Sandoval Godoy, Centro de Investigación en Alimentos y Desarrollo

Mexican. Doctor and Master in anthropological sciences by the Autonomous Metropolitan University (UAM-I); Master in Social Sciences and regional studies by the College of Sonora, and bachelor’s degree in economics by the University of Sonora. Member of the SNI, level II. Senior researcher in the Regional Development area at the Center for Research in Food and Development (CIAD), Mexico. Director of the Social Studies journal, affiliated with the Conacyt registry. His research include the study of productive organization models in Mexico’s exportation in the manufacturing industry, as well as the security and food culture.

Guillermo Núñez Noriega, Centro de Investigación en Alimentos y Desarrollo

Mexican. Doctor in anthropology by the University of Arizona; master’s degree in humanities by Arizona State University and bachelor’s degree in Sociology by the University of Sonora. Currently performs as a researcher at the Center of Research in Food and Development, A.C. His areas of research and interest were the gender of men and masculinities; studies of sexual diversity; indigenous people, sexuality and HIV; Folklore studies; society and culture in Sonora and northern Mexico.

Citas

Alonso, A. & Northcote, J. (2009). Wine, history, landscape: origin branding in Western Australia. British Food Journal, 111(11), 1248-1259. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1108/00070700911001068

Anderson, K., Norman, D., & Wittwer, G. (2003). Globalisation of the world’s wine markets. The World Economy, 26(5), 659-687. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-9701.00541

Anderson, K., & Nelgen, S. (2011). Wine’s globalization: the next phase. In K. Anderson & S. Nelgen (Eds.) Global Wine Markets, 1961 to 2009: A statistical compendium, pp. 27-32, Adelaide: University of Adelaide Press. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/UPO9780987073013.005

Anderson, K., & Pinilla, V. (2018). Wine globalization. A new comparative history. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781108131766

Appadurai, A. (1986). Introduction: commodities and the politics of value. In A. Appadurai (Ed.) The social life of things: Commodities in cultural perspective, pp. 3-63, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511819582.003

Appadurai, A. (1996). Global ethnoscapes: Notes and queries for a transnational anthropology. In D. Gaonkar & B. Lee (Eds.) Modernity at large: Cultural dimensions of globalization, pp. 48-65, Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press.

Avanza, M., & Laferté, G. (2005). Dépasser la « construction des identités » ? Identification, image sociale, appartenance. Geneses, 61(4), 134-152. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3917/gen.061.0134

Barker, J. (2004). Different worlds: law and the changing geographies of wine in France and New Zealand (doctoral thesis). University of Auckland, New Zealand.

Banks, G., & Overton, J. (2010). Old world, new world, third world? Reconceptualizing the worlds of wine. Journal of Wine Research, 21(1), 57-75. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/09571264.2010.495854

Banks, G. (2013). Between old worlds and the new? Transcending place and space in the contemporary geography of wine. Introduction. EchoGéo, 23, 1-5. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4000/echogeo.13380

Banks, G., Klinsrisuk. R., Dilokwanich. S., & Stupples., P. (2013). Wines without latitude: Global and local forces and the geography of the Thai wine industry. EchoGéo, 23, 1-18. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4000/echogeo.13368

Barham, E. (2003). Translating terroir: the global challenge of French AOC labeling. Journal of Rural Studies, 19, 127-138. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0743-0167(02)00052-9

Beckert, J., Rössel, J., & Schenk, P. (2014). Wine as a cultural product: Symbolic capital and price formation in the wine field. In Max Planck Institute for the Study of Societies. https://www.mpifg.de/pu/mpifg_dp/dp14-2.pdf DOI: https://doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.2464015

Black, R. & Ulin, R. (2013). Wine and culture: Vineyard to glass. London: Bloomsbury. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350042254

Blouin, J. & Peynaud, E. (2006). Enología práctica: Conocimiento y elaboración del vino (E. Cotillas, Trans.). Madrid: Mundi Prensa. (Original work published 2003).

Bourdieu, P. (1990). Sociología y Cultura (M. Pou, Trans.). Mexico: Grijalbo. (Original work published 1984).

Bourdieu, P. (1998). La distinción. Criterios y bases sociales del gusto (M. Ruiz de Elvira, Trans.). Madrid: Taurus. (Original work published 1979).

Bourdieu, P. (2007). El sentido práctico (A. Dilon, Trans.). Buenos Aires: Siglo Veintiuno Editores. (Original work published 1980).

Bowen, S. (2010). Embedding local places in global spaces: geographical indications as a territorial development strategy. Rural Sociology, 75(2), 209-243. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1549-0831.2009.00007.x

Brubaker, R., & Cooper, F. (2000). Beyond “identity”. Theory and Society, 29(1), 1-47. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1023/A:1007068714468

Cappeliez, S. (2017). How well does terroir travel? Illuminating cultural translation using a comparative wine case study. Poetics, 65, 24-36. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.poetic.2017.10.002

Carter, E. (2018). For what it’s worth: The political construction of quality in French and Italian wine markets. Socio-Economic Review, 16(3), 479-498. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1093/ser/mwx060

Charters, S. & Spielmann, N. (2014). Characteristics of strong territorial brands: the case of champagne. Journal of Business Research, 67, 1461-1467. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2013.07.020

Christensen, B., Martin, K., & Donald, P. (2015). Regional identity can add value to agricultural products. California Agriculture, 69(2), 85-91. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3733/ca.v069n02p85

Contreras, H. J., & Gracia, A. M. (2005). Alimentación y cultura: Perspectivas antropológicas. Barcelona: Ariel.

Corona, S. (2002). La vitivinicultura en el pueblo de Santa María de las Parras. Producción de vinos, vinagres y aguardientes (Siglos XVII y XVIII) (doctoral thesis) Universidad Iberoamericana, Mexico.

Corona, S. (2011). Turismo del vino en la D.O “Valle de Parras” Coahuila, México. In X. Medina, D. Serrano & J. Tresserras (Eds.) Turismo del vino. Análisis de casos internacionales, pp. 159-171, Barcelona: Editorial UOC

Covarruvias, J. & Thach, L. (2015). Wines of Baja Mexico: A qualitative study examining viticulture, enology, and marketing practices. Wine Economics and Policy, 4, 110-115. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wep.2015.11.001

De Jesús, D. & Thomé, H. (2019). Wine tourism and wine routes in Mexico. State of knowledge and case studies. RIVAR, 6(17), 27-44. DOI: https://doi.org/10.35588/rivar.v6i17.3913

De Jesús, D., Thomé, H., Espinoza, A. & Vizcarra, I. (2019). Trayectoria territorial de la región enológica de Querétaro, México (1970-2017): Enoturismo y calidad territorial. Cuadernos Geográficos 58(2), 240-261. DOI: https://doi.org/10.30827/cuadgeo.v58i2.7358

De Jesús, D., Thomé, H., Espinoza, A. & Medina, X. (2020). Enoturismo y promoción del territorio. Análisis comparativo entre el nuevo y el viejo mundo del vino. Pasos, 18(3), 457-471. DOI: https://doi.org/10.25145/j.pasos.2020.18.032

Demossier, M. (2005). Consuming Wine in France: The wandering drinker and the vin-anomie. In T. M. Wilson (Ed.), Drinking Cultures: Alcohol and Identity, pp.129-154, New York: Berg.

Demossier, M. (2011). Beyond terroir: territorial construction, hegemonic discourses, and French wine culture. Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, 17(4), 685-705. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-9655.2011.01714.x

Demossier, M. (2013). Following grands crus: Global markets, transnational histories and wine. In R. Black. and R. C. Ulin (Eds.) Wine and Culture: Vineyard to Glass, pp. 183-200, London: Bloomsbury. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350042254.ch-010

Demossier, M. (2018). Burgundy: The global story of terroir. New York: Berghahn Books.

Demossier, M. (2020). Reflexive imbrications: Burgundy and the globalization of terroir. In D. Inglis, and A. Almila (Eds.) The Globlalization of Wine, pp. 47-65, London: Bloombury Academic. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781474265027.ch-003

Douglas, M. & Nicod, M. (1974). Taking the biscuit: the structure of British meals. New society, 637, 744–747.

Escobar, A. (2001). Culture sits in places: reflections on globalism and subaltern strategies of localization. Political Geography, 139-174. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0962-6298(00)00064-0

Ferguson, P. (1998). A cultural field in the making: Gastronomy in 19th-century France. The American Journal of Sociology, 104(3), 597-641. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1086/210082

Fernández, J. (2012,) “El vino está de moda. Once grandes del viñedo español hablan de estilo”. El País Semanal, no. 1881, October, pp. 46-53.

Fischler, C. (1979). Gastro-nomie et gastro-anomie: Sagesse du corps et crise bioculturelle de l’alimentation moderne. Communications, 31, 189-210. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3406/comm.1979.1477

Fourcade, M. (2012). The vile and the noble: On the relation between natural and social classifications in the French wine world. Sociological Quarterly, 53(4), 524-545. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1533-8525.2012.01248.x

Friedman, J. (1994). Identidad cultural y proceso global (E. Sinnot, Trans.). Buenos Aires: Amorrortu (Simultaneously published for Sage Publications). DOI: https://doi.org/10.4135/9781446222195

Frigolé, J. (2014). Retóricas de la autenticidad en el capitalismo avanzado. Énedosa: Series Filosóficas, 33, 37-60. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5944/endoxa.33.2014.13564

García, N. (1999). La globalización imaginada. Buenos Aires: Paidós.

Giddens, A. (1991). The consequences of modernity. Cambridge: Polity Press

Giménez, G. (1997). Materiales para una teoría de las identidades sociales. Frontera Norte, 9(18), 9-28.

Graeber, D. (2001). Anthropological theory of value: The false coin of our own dreams. New York: Palgrave. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1057/9780312299064

Graeber, D. (2005). Value: anthropological theories of value. In J. Carrier (Ed.) The Handbook of Economic Anthropology, pp. 439-455, Cheltenham: Edward Elgar. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4337/9781845423469.00043

Gupta, A. & Ferguson, J. (1992). Beyond “culture”: Space, identity, and the politics of difference. Cultural Anthropolgy, 7(1), 6-23. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1525/can.1992.7.1.02a00020

Hall, S., Held, D., Hubert, D. & Thompson, K. (1996). Modernity: an introduction to modern societies. Malden: Blackwell.

Harvey, D. (1982). The limits to capital. Oxford: Basil Blackwell.

Harvey, D. (1990). The condition of postmodernity: An enquiry into the origins of cultural change. Cambridge: Blackwell.

Harvey, D. (2002). The art of rent: Globalization, monopoly and the commodification of culture. Socialist Register, 38, 93-110.

Henderson, G. (1998). Nature and fictitious capital: The historical geography of an agrarian question. Antipode, 30(2), 73-118. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-8330.00069

Herzfeld, M. (2004). The body impolitic. Artisans and artifice in the global hierarchy of value. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.

Hillel, D., Belhassen, Y. & Shani, A. (2013). What makes a gastronomic destination attractive? Evidence from the Israeli Negev. Tourism Management, 36, 200-209. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tourman.2012.12.006

Hinrichs, C. (2003). The practice and politics of food system localization. Journal of Rural Studies, 19, 33-45. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0743-0167(02)00040-2

Hira, A & Swartz, T. (2014). What makes Napa Napa? The roots of success in the wine industry. Wine Economics and Policy, 3, 37-53. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wep.2014.02.001

Hobsbawm E. & Ranger, T. (1983). The invention of tradition. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Inglis, D. (2020). Wine globalization: Longer-term dynamics and contemporary patterns. In A. Inglis, David & Almila (Eds.) The globlalization of wine, pp. 21-47, London: Bloombury Academic. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781474265027.ch-002

Inglis, D. & Almila, A. (Eds.) (2020). The globalization of wine. London: Bloombury Academic. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5040/9781474265027

Ingold, T. (1993). The temporality of the landscape. World Archaeology, 25(2), 152-174. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/00438243.1993.9980235

Ingold, T. (2000). The perception of the environment: Essays on livelihood, dwelling and skill. London: Routledge.

Jung, Y. (2014). Tasting and judging the unknown terroir of the Bulgarian wine: The political economy of sensory experience. Food and Foodways, 22, 24-47. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/07409710.2014.892733

Jung, Y. (2016). Re-creating economic and cultural values in Bulgaria’s wine industry: From an economy of quantity to an economy of quality? Economic Anthropology, 3, 280-292. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/sea2.12057

Kearney, M. (1995). The Anthropology of Globalization and Transnationalism. Annual Review of Anthropology, 24, 547-565. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.an.24.100195.002555

Kirshemblatt-Gimblett, B. (1998). Destination culture: tourism, museums and heritage. Berkeley: University of California Press. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1525/9780520919488

Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, B. (2004). Intangible heritage as metacultural production. Museum International, 56(1-2), 52-65. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1350-0775.2004.00458.x

Kopytoff, I. (1986). The cultural biography of things: commoditization as process. In A. Appadurai (Ed.), The social life of things: Commodities in cultural perspective, pp. 64-91, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511819582.004

Li, H., Wang, H., Li, H., Goodman, S., Van der Lee, P., Xu, Z., Fortunato, A. & Yang, P. (2018). The worlds of wine: Old, new and ancient. Wine Economics and Policy, 7(2), 178-182. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wep.2018.10.002

Lizardo, O. (2006). How cultural tastes shape personal networks. American Sociological Review, 71, 778-807. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/000312240607100504

Massey, D. (1991). A global sense of place. Marxism Today, 24–29. http://banmarchive.org.uk/collections/mt/pdf/91_06_24.pdf

McCoy, E. (2018, October 15). Why would anyone ever pay $558,000 for a bottle of wine? Bloomberg.https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2018-10-15/most-expensive-bottle-wine-1945-romanee-conti-burgundy-auction

Medina, X. (2017). Reflexiones sobre el patrimonio y la alimentación desde las perspectivas cultural y turística. Anales de Antropología, 51, 106-113. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.antro.2017.02.001

Miller, D. (2008). The uses of value. Geoforum, 39, 1122-1132. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2006.03.009

Monroe, R. (2019, November 18). How natural wine became a symbol of virtuous consumption. The New Yorker. https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2019/11/25/how-natural-wine-became-a-symbol-of-virtuous-consumption

Murdoch, J., Marsden, T. & Banks, J. (2000). Quality, nature, and embeddedness: Some theoretical considerations in the context of the food sector. Economic Geography, 76(2), 107-125. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1944-8287.2000.tb00136.x

Ong, A. & Collier, S. J. (2005). Global assemblages: Technology, politics, and ethics as anthropological problems. Oxford: Blackwell Publishing.

Overton, J., Murray, W. & Banks, G. (2012). The race to the bottom of the glass? Wine, geography, and globalization. Globalizations, 9(2), 273-287. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/14747731.2012.658251

Overton, J. & Banks, G. (2015). Conspicuous production: Wine, capital and status. Capital & Class, 39(3), 473 -491. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0309816815607022

Paasi, A. (2002). Place and region: Regional worlds and words. Progress in Human Geography, 26(6), 802-811. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1191/0309132502ph404pr

Paxson, H. (2010). Locating value in artisan cheese: Reverse engineering terroir for new-world landscapes. American Anthropologist, 112(3), 444-457. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1548-1433.2010.01251.x

Paxson, H. (2016). Re – inventing a tradition of invention: Entrepreneurialism as heritage American artisan cheesemaking. In R. Brulotte & M. Di Giovine (Eds) Edible identities: Food as cultural heritage. Burlington: Ashgate. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315578781-2

Prats, L. (1997). Antropología y patrimonio. Barcelona: Ariel.

Raftery, D. (2017). Producing value from Australia’s vineyards: an ethnographic approach to “the quality turn” in the Australia wine industry. Journal of Political Ecology, 24, 342-367. DOI: https://doi.org/10.2458/v24i1.20877

Rainer, G. (2016). The making of the “world’s highest wine region”: globalization and viticulture restructuring in Salta (Nw Argentina). Erdkunde, 70(3) 255-269. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3112/erdkunde.2016.03.04

Rao, H. (2003). Institutional change in Toque Ville: Nouvelle cuisine as an identity movement in french gastronomy. American Journal of Sociology, 108(4), 795-843. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1086/367917

Robbins, J. (2015). Ritual, value, and example: On the perfection of cultural representations. Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, 21(S1), 18-29. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-9655.12163

Robbins, J., & Sommerschuh, J. (2016). Values. In F. Stein, S. Lazar, M. Candea, H. Diemberger, J. Robbins, A. Sanchez & R. Stasch (Eds) The Cambridge Encyclopedia of Anthropology. http://doi.org/10.29164/16values DOI: https://doi.org/10.29164/16values

Roudometof, V. (2016). Glocalization: a critical introduction. European Journal of Social Theory, 19(3), 391-408. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/1368431015605443

Schmidt, C., Macchione, M. & Fowler de Ávila, G. (2014). Value creation and value appropriation in networks: an empirical analysis of the role of geographical indication in the wine industry in Vale Dos Vinhedos, RS, Brazil. Organizações Rurais & Agroindustriais, 16(3), 343-362.

Skinner, W. (2020). Wine, geology mapping and the value of place in McLaren Vale. Australian Journal of Anthropology, 31(1), 85-100. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/taja.12346

Teil, G. (2012). No such thing as terroir? Objectivities and the regimes of existence of objects. Science Technology and Human Values, 37(5), 478-505. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0162243911423843

Trubek, A. & Bowen, S. (2008). Creating the taste of place in the United States: can we learn from the French. GeoJournal, 73(1), 23-30. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10708-008-9175-3

Ulin, R. (2002). Work as cultural production: Labour and self- identity among southwest French wine – growers. Royal Anthropological Institute, 8, 691-712. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-9655.00129

Unwin, T. (2012). Terroir: At the heart of geography. In P. Dougherty (Ed.), The geography of wine: Regions, terroir and techniques, pp. 37- 48, London: Springer. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-007-0464-0_2

Urry, J. (1995). Consuming places. New York: Routledge.

Winter, M. (2003). Embeddedness, the food economy and defensive localism. Journal of Rural Studies, 19, 23-32. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0743-0167(02)00053-0

Publicado

2021-12-04

Cómo citar

Salas Quesada, M. del C., Sandoval Godoy, S. A., & Núñez Noriega, G. (2021). Old categories and new wine geographies. Discussing the creation of value, tradition and identity. Culturales, 9, 1–31. https://doi.org/10.22234/recu.20210901.e609

Número

Sección

Artículos